Peels are having a bit of a moment, and I doubt they are going away any time soon.
There are so many benefits to having regular peels, and most skin types will benefit from them. I’m not talking about the blue peels of the past where your whole face literally fell off. Modern peels can enhance and regulate your skin’s natural repair and renewal processes. If you want to learn more about the basic types of peels, read this post where Dr Judey from Biomedical Emporium breaks down each one into layman’s terms for us.
I’ve been having regular peels with her for years, and have recently tried the Biomedical Emporium Layered Peel. Sound excessive? Actually, it’s more like ‘work smart not hard.’ As not all acids do the same thing, the idea is to get the benefits of multiple peels in one go.
Let me first explain the difference between an AHA and a BHA.
AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid, which means that the hydroxy part of the molecule is separated from the acid part by one carbon atom. They are water soluble and work on the surface of the skin.
BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid, where the hydroxy part is separated from the acid by two carbon atoms. They BHAs are oil soluble, so are perfect for fighting acne and blackheads, as they penetrate the pores and give them a good old clean out.
With all of these, it is also dependent on the concentration as to how deep they go, which is why it is vitally important you go to a qualified therapist or doctor to have any peels.
Onto the process of the layered peel, obviously you don’t just make a cocktail of peels and slap them on your face. You start with the lowest molecular weight and work your way up, leaving each one on for 2 minutes to work its magic before applying the next.
Dr Judey starts with glycolic acid to remove all the dead skin cells on the surface of your skin. Lactic acid is next, as this AHA increases ceramide production and hydration, helps prevent congestion and fights pigmentation through gentle exfoliation. The last layer is a combination of salicylic and ascorbic acids, these are applied together because they are of a similar molecular weight and work (and mix) well together with very minimal risk of reaction on the skin. Salicylic acid is the gold standard in sebum regulation and is a whizz at clearing out pores, all while being incredibly calming to the skin thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties. Ascorbic acid is added to help boost radiance. The choice of many doctors, this form of Vitamin C is a super antioxidant. It breaks down dark spots and pigmentation, and helps protect the skin from further free radical damage.
My skin was a little red for the rest of the day after the peel, but the next day I woke up with a glowing complexion that lasted for over two weeks. It’s a great treatment to have before a big event or at the end of summer. Obviously, I wouldn’t have it done for the first time before a wedding or anything just in case it takes a little longer to settle, but it definitely worth a try of your skin is looking lack-luster or you’re struggling with acne, pigmentation or patches of dryness.
Face peel image: Nikodash for Shutterstock